Q and A: Lining and padding

I thought that I would answer this reader's question with a post as it requires more than just a one sentence answer:

Luficarius Ratspeed said...
Hey Kerry, I've been wondering something about these linings for a long time. What's the weight like? I mean considering that they're quilting in heavy portions of upholstery wadding it really makes me wonder! All the linings that I've been looking at are so thin and light, but all the evidence I've seen of the linings that you and others have shown of vintage coats reveal that they're quite heavy. What would you consider to be a good product to buy?
June 02, 2012

The vintage tailcoats that I posted about were lined in black satin and quilted to pad out the body to create the silhouette of the period. The padding varied from figure to figure as different bodies required enhancements in different places. Some tailors would machine sew the padding in whilst the more traditional method is to hand sew the padding, sometimes forming intricate patterns. Machining can create a stronger/stiffer area and the balace must be found between the density of the sewing and the amount of padding used in order to achieve the right result. This takes some practice and samples. 

An amazing example of recent padding (2006) by Davide Taub is worth seeing:

via davidetaub.blogspot.co.uk

So, in answer to the lining part of the question: 

Just like cloths, lining comes in various weights and should be chosen with the garment cloth in mind. A lining should never be too heavy that it would control the garment and conversely, if you are padding a lining, the outer cloth should have enough weight to be supported by it and not have the structure of the padding show through. Richard James Weldon has a range of linings that are of similar weight and feel to the vintage counterpart. Look for the cotton back twill 7048 or slightly lighter rayon viscose twill 1010. Harrisons of Edinburgh also have a wide selection of linings ranging from 100g right through to a 180g satin backed lining which is quite heavy and more suited to heavy weight overcoats. 

RJW cotton back twill

RJW's rayon viscose twill

Harrisons' colourful selection of satins at 160g

Happy sewing,
Kerry

Can you tell what it is yet?

Time to reveal another Madame Tussauds figure, this time Rolf Harris for the Sydney attraction. Sydney opened in April and it has taken a while for me to get some good photos.


I made the jacket in the middle of last year, having the original jacket on loan to replicate. The bright aqua jacket was lined in equally as bright pink lining. The cloth we used was a great colour match but the downside was that it has some stretch. The spring in the cloth did present a new challenge in replicating the hand sewing but I think you'll agree that it came out rather well - if I do say so myself. 


Firstly here is the real Rolf in the original jacket:

photo via www.thesocialshuttle.com

still shot from this video

A Wedding Suit with a Difference - Alternative Groom

Brian and Kirsty came to me to make Brian's wedding suit and their four groomsmen's waistcoats. They had found a suit they liked in The Haslemere Wardrobe, a costume hire shop that very kindly sent them my way. Brian wanted something similar to what he found there, but in a colour more suited to him. In addition, the suit needed to fit his almost 2 metre tall, athletically built frame properly!

As this was not a historical recreation but rather a modern suit with some period flair, we found a great reference sketch from Jason Maclochlainn's book, The Victorian Tailor, and started from there. In the fittings we tweaked the style a little, modernising some things to get the most from style of the suit. Brian can wear it with confidence for years to come and not just for his wedding. 

The cloth is Harrisons Thornproof 62015, for those of you playing at home. The four groomsmen all have the same waistcoat style with the exception of the back lining, they all have a shot silver lining. Brian's waistcoat is highlighted in the complimentary tri-colour stripe bringing out the red fleck in the tweed. 

The style of the trousers are contemporary but still in keeping with the rest of the suit; a slim cut with front creases, slanted side pockets with a single back pocket flap and side adjustors. The jacket is the most period of the three pieces, Brian loves the waist seam, back shaping  and pleats that the body coat gives.

Brian and Kirsty were married yesterday. Congratulations to you both.

Two Piece suit in P&B Universal

This suit is cut for a very corpulent figure.

The cloth is Harrisons P&B Universal 74163, 15/16oz charcoal grey.